Indonesia’s Tea Journey: From Trade to Tradition

Indonesia’s tea industry, centered in Java, Sumatra, and Sulawesi, has deep historical roots tied to global trade. Originally part of the Dutch East Indies, Indonesia was a key hub for spice trading, first dominated by Arab traders and later by the Portuguese and Dutch. The Dutch East Indies Company (VOC) controlled tea imports to Europe, sourcing from China and Japan via Java. Tea cultivation in Indonesia began in 1684 with Chinese tea plants but struggled until the 1830s. Inspired by British success in Assam, Dutch planters introduced Assam tea bushes, which thrived in Indonesia’s tropical climate, establishing a lasting tea industry.

The island’s mountainous terrain and subtropical climate are ideal for tea cultivation. By the 1890s, Taiwan's tea exports surged, contributing significantly to its economy. Under Japanese rule, Taiwan also produced green tea for export, and today, it still exports some green tea to Japan. Taiwan’s tea culture is deeply ingrained in daily life, with tea served in banks and offices, and the country has developed over 100 iced-tea flavors, including the popular bubble tea.

Tea cultivation thrived in Java by 1878, gaining recognition alongside Ceylon and Indian teas. The Dutch expanded production to Sumatra in the early 1900s, making Indonesia the world’s fourth-largest tea producer by 1942. However, World War II devastated the industry, leaving tea factories neglected and gardens overgrown. In the late 1980s, the Tea Board of Indonesia launched restoration programs, revitalizing tea production. Today, Indonesia exports 168,000 metric tons of tea from thirteen provinces across Java, Sumatra, and Sulawesi.

Indonesia’s Rich Tea Region: Mountains, Volcanoes, and Fertile Soil

Indonesia’s Java island, known for its mountainous terrain and active volcanoes, is home to some of the world’s richest biodiversity. Tea production thrives in the highlands of western Java, particularly around Bogor and Bandung, where volcanic soil and lush rainforests create ideal conditions. During colonial times, the Dutch established large tea plantations in these valleys, and today, the Chakra Group operates several estates in the Pangalengan district. With a dry climate allowing year-round plucking, the best tea is harvested between July and September from elevations over 2,500 feet. Indonesian teas are known for their finesse, often compared to high-grown Ceylon teas, and account for 17% of the country’s agricultural output. Weekly auctions in Jakarta feature teas from Java estates like Cibuni and Cisaruni, and Sumatra estates such as Bah Butong and Gunong Dempo.

Nepal: Tea from a Himalayan Kingdom

Located near Darjeeling, Nepal's high-altitude tea gardens produce teas with complexity and finesse similar to Darjeeling's. However, the industry has faced challenges due to isolation, lack of modernization, and government mismanagement. Nepal produces both orthodox and CTC teas, with the finest orthodox teas grown in the eastern regions near India. Despite these obstacles, the privatization of tea gardens in recent decades has led to increased production, with a tenfold rise from 2002 to 2004. While only 10% of production is high-quality orthodox tea, exports to markets like Canada and the U.S. have grown, though much of the CTC tea is consumed locally or used in blends.

Nepalese tea, often blended with Darjeeling, is focusing on authenticity with new quality seals. Supported by HOTPA, the government is boosting orthodox tea production and processing. Ethical standards are being enforced through a new code of conduct, aiming to expand Nepal's high-quality teas in global markets.

Tea from the Hippies on Freak Street

Most of Nepal's tea gardens are privately owned, with the Nepal Tea Development Corporation controlling only seven. Smallholders manage around 2,468 gardens, with notable estates like the Kanchenjunga Tea Estate, a collective venture in Panchthar. Nepal has about 25,000 acres under tea cultivation, with nearly half dedicated to orthodox leaf. The highest concentration of orthodox tea production comes from smallholders in Ilam and Panchthar.

In the late 1970s, a young couple gave a café owner a tin of Nepalese tea from Kathmandu’s Freak Street. The tea, from the Ilam Tea Company, was fragrant and light, distinct from other teas sold in the shop. Inspired by its unique flavor, the owner spent nearly a year tracing its origins. Nepal’s tea harvest spans four seasons, each bringing distinct flavors: the fresh, light spring crop; the full, bright summer tea; the standard monsoon flush; and the rich, smooth autumn flush, which is prized by connoisseurs.

As we close our journey through Indonesia and Nepal’s tea production, it's clear both countries offer unique, flavorful teas. From Indonesia’s robust, Ceylon-like varieties to Nepal’s delicate, Darjeeling-inspired leaves, each region has its own tea story to tell. Thanks to the dedication of smallholder farmers and ongoing improvements, these teas are gaining recognition globally. So, next time you brew a cup, enjoy the rich history and culture in every sip.

DID YOU KNOW?

Tea has long been associated with romance! In Victorian times, tea sets were popular Valentine’s gifts, and rose or chocolate-flavored teas make a perfect Valentine’s drink today. Tea-inspired desserts, such as matcha-flavored treats or earl grey-infused sweets, have gained popularity as romantic gifts, blending both the joy of tea and the sweetness of love.