Taiwan: Where Tea Culture Thrives

Taiwan, an island in the South China Sea, is renowned for its high-quality, mountain-grown oolong tea. Though small in size, Taiwan’s tea industry has flourished since the 1860s, when Chinese immigrants from Fujian brought tea-growing knowledge and seeds to the island. Originally cultivated by indigenous people, tea production expanded with the arrival of the Chinese, blending local and Chinese methods. Today, Taiwan’s tea industry thrives with nearly 6,000 family-owned farms and is globally acclaimed for its fragrant, distinctive teas.

The island’s mountainous terrain and subtropical climate are ideal for tea cultivation. By the 1890s, Taiwan's tea exports surged, contributing significantly to its economy. Under Japanese rule, Taiwan also produced green tea for export, and today, it still exports some green tea to Japan. Taiwan’s tea culture is deeply ingrained in daily life, with tea served in banks and offices, and the country has developed over 100 iced-tea flavors, including the popular bubble tea.

Taiwan produces around 60-70% of its tea for export, focusing on traditional, high-quality oolong teas, which are distinct from those of Mainland China. While black and green teas are also made, Taiwan is particularly famous for its light, fragrant oolongs.

Taiwan Regions That Define the Flavor

Taiwan is home to three main tea-growing regions: north, central, and south, with the highest concentration of tea gardens in the center of the island. There are seven prime tea-producing areas, and Taiwan’s favorable climate allows for five plucking seasons—spring, summer, second summer, fall, and winter. This nearly year-round harvest produces a variety of oolong teas, each with distinct flavors, colors, and leaf shapes. Taiwanese oolongs typically have lower oxidation levels (10-40%) compared to those from neighboring Fujian, giving them a lighter, drinkable style with a woodsy flavor and peachy aroma. The Taiwan Tea Research and Extension Station has developed several clonal tea varieties, such as Qing Xing, Jin Xuan, and Sijichun, focusing on hardiness, pest resistance, and weather tolerance.

TAIWAN’S FAMOUS TEAS

Tea gardens in southern Korea thrive in regions like South Jeollanam Province, Haenam, Yeongam, Jangseong counties, and Cheju-do Island, benefiting from ideal weather conditions. Mount Wolchul and Mount Jiri also support wild tea gardens. Due to limited supply, high-quality Korean teas are expensive. The best teas are plucked according to the lunar calendar's seasonal divisions, with the earliest pluckings being the most prized.

The first plucking, Ujon, occurs before April 20 (Koku), when only buds and single leaves are harvested. This is followed by Sejak, a plucking of buds and two leaves. The first summer plucking, Ipha, begins around May 5, with lower-quality teas harvested later in the summer.

Sri Lanka: Small Island, Steeped in Tea Mastery

Sri Lanka, a small tropical island just off the southern tip of India, is a powerhouse in global tea production. Despite its modest size—271 miles long and 137 miles wide—it ranks as the third-largest tea producer and one of the world’s leading exporters. The island's perfect climate, fertile soil, and mist-covered central highlands provide ideal conditions for tea cultivation, enabling nearly year-round harvesting in the densely planted regions.

The tea industry employs over a million workers across 38 subdistricts in central Sri Lanka, making it the country's largest employer. Most workers are descendants of Indian Tamils brought by the British in the 19th century. Tea estates, managed by large companies like Bogawantalawa and Agalawatte Plantations, produce tea across 650 estates spanning nearly 482,000 acres. Ceylon tea is known for its distinct flavors, ranging from general blends to region- and estate-specific varieties.

Ceylon tea, especially the black varieties, is renowned for its brisk, fruity flavor and bright color. While Sri Lanka also produces a small amount of green tea, the country's focus is on black tea, with tea grown in the highlands offering unique flavor profiles due to the varied climate, altitude, and soil conditions. These factors create a distinct terroir, giving Sri Lanka’s tea its signature quality and making it one of the most sought-after in the world.

SIX DISTINCT GROWING REGIONS

Sri Lanka’s six tea-growing regions—Dimbula, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Ruhuna, Uda Pussellawa, and Uva—each have unique elevations and microclimates that influence the flavor and body of their teas. While all Ceylon teas share a brisk, fruity flavor and clean style, each region offers distinct characteristics shaped by its terroir. From specialty single-origin teas to popular full-bodied blends, Ceylon teas are celebrated for their satisfying flavor, body, and style, earning them the nickname "the cup that cheers."

The Craft Orthodox Tea in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is known for producing high-quality orthodox black tea, prized by connoisseurs for its fruity, brisk flavor. It is commonly used in single estate teas or English-style blends and is often the base for fruit-flavored teas. In 1994, Sri Lanka attempted to shift to CTC tea production, which is cheaper but less flavorful, to compete with countries like India and Kenya. However, this change led to a loss in tea sales and diminished Sri Lanka's reputation as a luxury tea producer. The strategy was ultimately abandoned, and Sri Lanka returned to focusing on producing premium orthodox teas, regaining its global standing.

Sri Lanka’s tropical climate allows year-round tea production without a dormant season. Tea bushes are pruned every four years to encourage regrowth. New clonal varieties improve yield and hardiness. Regions like Uva and Dimbula have unique microclimates that create "seasonal quality" teas with distinct flavors. The island's central mountain range divides the climate, ensuring optimal growing conditions year-round.

TEA REPLACES COFFEE AS SRI LANKA’S MAIN CROP

Tea became a major crop in Sri Lanka in the late 19th century after coffee, the island's main crop, was devastated by disease. While the Dutch had failed to grow tea, the English began experimenting with tea cultivation in the 1860s, bringing seeds from China and Assam. They also introduced the habit of drinking tea, which was quickly embraced by local elites.

As the coffee industry collapsed, tea gardens replaced coffee plantations. By 1900, the area under tea cultivation had grown from just 10,000 acres in 1875 to 300,000 acres. Today, Sri Lanka has about 481,855 acres of tea farms.

TEA REPLACES COFFEE AS SRI LANKA’S MAIN CROP

Tea production in Sri Lanka involves a team effort, with tea estate managers, pluckers, and factory workers all playing key roles. Unlike China, where various leaf styles are harvested, Ceylon tea is always plucked as a "flush" — two leaves and a bud. Tea is collected in baskets or cloth sacks and emptied frequently to prevent bruising. A skilled plucker can gather up to sixty pounds of tea daily, yielding about sixteen pounds of finished tea. Plucking occurs every seven to fourteen days, depending on altitude.

After harvesting, the leaves are processed in factories using a mix of machinery and expertise. Most Ceylon tea is made using the orthodox method, where the leaves are withered and rolled to begin oxidation. CTC teas, on the other hand, are processed to produce finely cut leaf particles.

Ceylon teas are graded by size, but this doesn't always reflect quality. They are marketed by region, district, or as estate-specific blends. All authentic Ceylon tea carries the Sri Lanka Tea Board's logo, a stylized lion holding a sword.

DID YOU KNOW?

In many cultures, drinking tea on New Year’s Day is believed to bring good luck and fortune for the year ahead! In Japan, for example, it’s common to enjoy a cup of “New Year’s tea” made from a special blend of green tea, symbolizing fresh starts and prosperity. So, why not start your year off right with a hot cup of tea and sip your way into good fortune?