In the first part of Chapter 4, we explore the enchanting world of tea production in China, the birthplace of tea. Renowned for its rich history and cultural significance, China boasts a diverse range of teas, each with its own unique story.

This December, we're taking you on a journey through the vibrant tea traditions of Korea and India. From the serene elegance of Korean tea ceremonies to the bold, spiced warmth of Indian chai, discover the stories and customs that make each sip unique. Curl up with your favorite tea and join us as we continue our global adventure through the world of tea!

Korea: The Expanding Legacy of Tea

Tea was introduced to Korea by Buddhist monks returning from China during the sixth to eighth centuries, at a time when cultural exchange between China, Japan, and Korea was flourishing. While tea culture took root in China and Japan, it did not become as entrenched in Korea. However, during the early Koryo dynasty (918-1392), tea began to play a significant role in Korean society. Kings used tea as gifts for monks and military leaders, and it became associated with mental clarity and spiritual offerings. Tea was also used in rituals honoring nature spirits and ancestors, and it was practiced by all social classes, unlike in China and Japan where it was reserved for the elite.

In the late 18th century, Korean tea culture revived through Buddhist influence, beginning with Tsan Chong Yak-yong, who learned tea from monks and passed it on to Ch’o Ui. After Japanese colonial rule repressed tea practices, Venerable Hyo Dang (Choi Beom-sul) led the revival post-independence, publishing The Korean Way of Tea in 1973 and codifying the Panyaro method.

His work helped renew interest in tea culture, continued by his successor Chae Won-Hwa. Panyaro focuses on simplicity, mindfulness, and Zen principles, promoting physical and mental well-being. Today, the Federation of Korean Tea Masters Society, with over 100,000 members, supports the restoration of Korea’s tea traditions.

The Alchemy of Korean Green Tea

Korean tea is traditionally hand-plucked and processed through a series of steps involving parching and shaping. The fresh leaves are first heated in an iron caldron or tea-firing pan to remove moisture, then hand-rolled and shaped on a bamboo or straw mat. After each round of heating and shaping, the leaves are air-dried, then returned to the pan for additional processing. This cycle continues until the leaves are sufficiently dried and shaped. The final step, charcoal parching, enhances the tea’s flavor and fragrance. A variation called chung-ch’a involves briefly steaming the leaves before firing, similar to Japanese methods. This process is more labor-intensive and expensive. Tea Master Chae Won-Hwa oversees the production of chung-ch’a at the Panyaro Institute in Seoul.

Korea's Tea Gardens Today

Tea gardens in southern Korea thrive in regions like South Jeollanam Province, Haenam, Yeongam, Jangseong counties, and Cheju-do Island, benefiting from ideal weather conditions. Mount Wolchul and Mount Jiri also support wild tea gardens. Due to limited supply, high-quality Korean teas are expensive. The best teas are plucked according to the lunar calendar's seasonal divisions, with the earliest pluckings being the most prized.

The first plucking, Ujon, occurs before April 20 (Koku), when only buds and single leaves are harvested. This is followed by Sejak, a plucking of buds and two leaves. The first summer plucking, Ipha, begins around May 5, with lower-quality teas harvested later in the summer.

India: A Tapestry of Tea and Terrain

India is a land of vibrant contrasts, from its bustling cities to its serene rural landscapes. It’s a home to a rich tapestry of cultures, and landscape, with dense jungles, and sacred mountains. Its tea-growing regions are equally diverse, with the northern states of Assam, Darjeeling, and Dooars producing some of the world’s most famous teas, while the southern states of Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka also contribute to its vast tea production.

India is the world’s largest producer of tea, with over 927,000 metric tons produced in 2005 across nearly 112,000 tea estates. Much of this tea is consumed domestically, though India ranks fourth in global tea exports. Tea is sold through auction centers in cities like Guwahati, Siliguri, Calcutta, Cochin, Coimbatore, and Coonoor.

The country’s tea-growing areas are geographically diverse, ranging from the tropical valleys of Assam and the Dooars to the cool, high-altitude hills of Darjeeling and the Nilgiri Mountains in the south, each region offering unique climate and terroir conditions for tea production.

Tea Gardens of the Brahmaputra and Barak Basins

Assam, located at the foothills of the eastern Himalayas in northeastern India, is where the wild tea plant Camellia sinensis var. assamica was discovered in 1823. It shares borders with Bhutan, Myanmar, and Bangladesh, and is surrounded by states like Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland. Home to nearly 400 ethnic groups, Assam remains largely undeveloped and distinct from the rest of India.

Basket-Carrying Damsels

Tea pickers, mostly women, add vibrant color to the tea fields with their multicolored garments and woven head wraps. They use woven bamboo baskets, slung over the shoulder or balanced on their heads, to collect the freshly plucked tea leaves. The plucking technique is delicate and skilled, requiring a swift, twisting motion to separate the leaf from the stem without damaging it. Tea pickers work efficiently with both hands, filling their baskets or sacks with leaves until they can carry no more.

Elephants In Assam

Lokhi, a retired domesticated elephant, plays a unique role in Assam's tea gardens. Captured as a teenager, he spends half his time in the jungle and the other half helping in the garden by uprooting tea plants to make room for new clonal varieties. His work is essential, as elephants are far more efficient than humans at pulling out the roots. Lokhi is also helpful with tasks like pushing stuck trucks. He costs $10 a day to maintain, covering his food, caretakers, medicines, and supplies.

Assam’s tropical climate produces strong, malty teas. The season begins with delicate first-flush teas, followed by the prized second-flush. Assam grows both orthodox teas, carefully plucked for quality, and CTC teas, processed for higher volume. The monsoon supports growth, with about 25 pluckings per season.

Darjeeling: The Queen Of Indian Teas

Darjeeling, known as the "Queen of Indian Teas," was established in 1835 as a British hill station in the cool, high-altitude region of western Bengal. The area, previously inhabited by Tibetan Buddhist monks, was ideal for tea cultivation. Dr. A. Campbell, a government official, successfully grew tea from seeds smuggled out of China and from Assam, proving that the high-altitude environment was perfect for tea production. By 1866, the region had several tea gardens, including famous ones like Makaibari and Singell.

Darjeeling, nestled between Nepal, Bhutan, and Sikkim, offers breathtaking views of the Himalayas. Visitors can enjoy the sunrise at Tiger Hill, where they can see Kanchenjunga, the third-highest peak in the world, and, on clear days, Mount Everest. The region is not only known for its tea but also its monasteries, nature reserves, and scenic beauty.

DID YOU KNOW?

The First Tea Gifts Were at Christmas. In the early 18th century, tea was so rare and precious in England that it was often given as a luxurious Christmas gift! Gifting tea symbolized wealth and generosity. Today, tea remains a holiday favorite, from elegant loose-leaf tins to beautiful tea sets—making it the perfect present for tea lovers still!